06 · Liners & Sealing
The liner is the pond. Choose wrong and you chase leaks forever. Here are the realistic options for a natural build.
Option comparison
| Liner | Lifespan | Cost | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| EPDM rubber | 20–30 yr | $$ | Most natural ponds — flexible, fish-safe, UV-stable |
| Butyl rubber | 25–40 yr | $$$ | Premium long-life builds |
| PVC | 5–15 yr | $ | Budget / temporary; stiffens in cold |
| Bentonite clay | Indefinite if wet | $$ | Large earth ponds; natural sealing |
| Clay (native) | Indefinite | $ | Where subsoil is proven heavy clay |
| Concrete | 20+ yr | $$$ | Formal builds; needs sealing & coping |
| No liner (earth) | — | $ | Only where soil holds water naturally |
Sizing an EPDM liner
Example: a 4 m × 3 m pond, 1 m deep, 0.4 m overlap → liner 6.4 m × 5.4 m.
Underlayment
Always lay a protective layer under rubber: specialized geotextile underlay, old carpet (clean, synthetic), or a 5–10 cm sand blinding. This is cheap insurance against puncture.
Installation
- Place underlayment, then unfold liner on a calm, warm day (rubber is pliable when warm).
- Let it sag into every shelf and crevice — do not stretch it taut.
- Fill partially with water to settle it into shape, then trim excess leaving 30–60 cm overlap.
- Secure the edge under a coping stone or trench — this hides the liner and finishes the look.
Bentonite / natural clay method
For larger, more natural ponds you can seal with sodium bentonite: spread a blanket of dry granules (roughly 2–4 kg/m²) over the smoothed basin, then cover with a thin soil layer and water in. It swells to form a clay seal. Best where a rubber liner would be prohibitively large or expensive.
Width = max width of pond + (2 × max depth) + 600 mm edging each side
Length = max length of pond + (2 × max depth) + 600 mm edging each side
Always round up to the nearest available size. A liner that is 300 mm too short is useless.